Ryan Galiotto

Posts Tagged ‘howto’

It is not possible here to give more than a general outline of the principles underlying timing, but as an approximation it can be assumed that a burl is formed on a giant decorative approximately six weeks after stopping, provided the plant at the time is in a fit state to be stopped, as explained earlier in the chapter, and that it will take a further four weeks for this bud to expand to the maximum sized bloom.

It is important to remember that the dahlia, although a very strong growing plant, is at its weakest during the first few weeks after planting, and that two things are essential during this period.

It is also possible by careful timing to ensure that the majority of plants can be induced to flower around a given date, by stopping plants of one variety at intervals of a few days, but to apply this system effectively it is essential to build up a considerable knowledge of the potential of all varieties grown.

The main thing to remember is that there is an immense variation in the time taken by individual varieties to produce blooms, and that it is best to find out before stopping time, when growing a new variety, whether it is naturally early or late blooming, and to stop accordingly, basing the calculation on the assumption that the majority of varieties will bloom approximately io to 12 weeks from the date of stopping. This is a very approximate guide, but it will give a sound basis to work upon until an accurate knowledge is built up from the variations from the normal displayed by different varieties. Exact timing will never be achieved but it will be possible to ensure that blooms of a particular variety will be available over a period covering the specified date.

Although this may seem a great deal of trouble, it is better to take such precautions than to have the heartbreaking sight of a strong healthy branch broken off later in the season, particularly on a plant well thinned out for giant blooms of exhibition quality. For the same reason it is essential to tie in the branches as these develop, and this is a task that must never be neglected.

But the danger here is the tendency for the whole plant to swing in a circular fashion around the stake during high winds.

There are those who have tried out the Labruscan varieties from Ontario. These cannot be grown under Guyot pruning methods but must be cultivated by a simpler system such as one main rod plus six strong side growths, which are pruned back hard each January.

In the spring choose the stoutest and strongest growth and tie this perpendicularly to a stake. Cut out all other growths and concentrate on this one. Do not carry out any summer pruning, just let this strong rod develop naturally. Next January cut this rod back to within 3 buds of its base. When the 3 buds grow out, keep them, tying them to stakes or bamboos so as to form a goblet shape. Do not do any summer pruning.

Once again the vine is allowed to grow naturally the first year and then it is cut down to within two buds of its base. The strongest of the shoots that result is kept and is tied perpendicularly to a stout bamboo cane. All side growths that develop are pinched out with the thumb and forefinger to their base. When all the leaves have fallen, the long cane should first of all be tied to the stake and then should be carefully bent so that it can be tied along the lower wire. This bending of the cane, at an angle of 90 degrees, is important because the flow of sap is checked.

Red Spiders can be detected by examining the back of the leaf with a magnifying glass. Red Spider is a bad name. Yellow Mite would be better.

Powdery Mildew causes white patches to appear on the leaves and then the fruit, then the young shoots. Individual grapes that are attacked will either fall or go rotten. Vines that are mulched are seldom attacked with mildew, and when the young laterals are properly spaced out, so that they are not overcrowded, this disease seldom appears. Dusting the plants with a fine sulphur dust largely cures the trouble when seen.

When growing a vine against a wall the pruning may be similar. The rod instead of being taken along a lower wire can be trained, with a main rod growing upwards and with side permanent rods trained out at right angles. Thus a series of horizontal cordons are formed and the laterals they produce are pruned back hard each January. These are tied to wires stretched tightly in between the main wires.

They are merely practical hints on the placing, tending and training of plants which can enable the housewife or home owner to display his or her talents and personality and at the same time obtain greater value and reward from the plants in the home.

Beside the little wine serving table in the dining-room stands a plant of Philodendron imbe, usually known as Burgundy because of the deep, rich, wine red of its lanceolate leaves and in the bedroom are several soft, intimate, dainty and delicate plants of African violets, seldom without flowers the whole year through. In the kitchen grow pots of quick growing and easily replaced chives and mint and the elegant cone of a little bay tree.

Too often an elegant, upright sansevieria or even aspidistra over years of careful tending becomes a bush or a forest of spears and loses its identity. Divide these crowded plants so that they retain their basic shapes.

An impression of warmth is given if a wall is covered with the trained tendrils and shoots of a growing plant or if warm colors are used. And as might be expected, a hot summer day can be cooled indoors by the decorative use of cool greens, purples and dark colors in general.

Look at your plants carefully, determine their basic characteristics, shapes and habits and then utilize these to the full.

Remember that warm air travels upwards and the area immediately under the ceiling is likely to be both warmer and drier than at foot level, so where plants are to grow tall or be placed high, increase the relative humidity of the room slightly for their benefit.

Phragmipediums, like paphiopedilums, are also known as slipper orchids. However, there is no slipper orchid alliance as appears within the other major orchid groups, because phragmipediums will not interbreed with similar-looking, related genera. This is surprising when we consider the similarity between the flowers, especially among the multi-flowered paphiopedilums. The plants resemble the paphiopedilums, with their large, tufted growths.

These are flattened and silvery white, with clearly visible, green-growing tips. They have a tendency to adhere to any surface with which they come into contact. In a greenhouse, they often attach themselves to the bench upon which they are growing.

Phragmipedium besseae, a plant with a flower of such brilliant red that it caused a sensation wherever it was seen. Its natural home was on the sheer rock faces of the inaccessible mountainous regions of Peru and Ecuador, and it was this precarious and impossible-to-reach habitat that kept the species under nature’s wraps for so long. Invisible from the ground, it was only discovered when spotted from a helicopter flying over the area on a plant-hunting expedition.

By the end of the 20th century, most of its former sites had been systematically stripped of these precious plants, which were quickly spread around the world. Today, this one plant has projected the genus to a high profile not previously enjoyed. Numerous red hybrids have resulted that are now at the forefront of all Phragmipedium breeding. We have yet to see the full potential this species is capable of reaching. The majority of hybrids raised using the red-flowered Phragmipedium besseae have predictably produced blooms in the red to orange range. These are largepouched, short-petalled, nicely balanced flowers, and are in sharp contrast to the species Phragmipedium caudatum and its old hybrid P. Grande, which possess extremely long, ribbon-like, twisting petals that reach down for 30cm (12in) or more.

When held horizontally by the petal tips, the flower stretches over 60cm (2ft), making this the largest orchid flower in the world. Phragmipediums become considerably large in their growth, and some of the modern hybrids raised from the species Phragmipedium longifolium produce extremely long, almost perpetually blooming flower spikes that go on for many months, even years, producing more blooms from an everextending tip. These large plants need plenty of headroom wherever they are grown. Their root system is similar to paphiopedilums, but more robust. The plants are at their best when allowed to reach their full potential and flowering ability, rather then being divided into small pieces.

Temperature for Phalaenopsis orchids is warm-growing (winter minimum 18C/65F with a rise during the day of 12C/20F). Grow in 10cm (4in) pais acoarse bark or Rockwool. Water and them throughout the year, but avoid waterlogging. High humidity is not necessary; placing plants on a humidity tray provides the appropriate level. Wipe the foliage with a damp cloth to clear of dust, but do not allow water to run down into the centre of the plant, where it can lead to rotting.